Article: TALK ABOUT DERBY − Where did Derby come from? −
TALK ABOUT DERBY − Where did Derby come from? −
As the second installment in our series of columns detailing classic shoe designs, we'll be introducing Derby shoes. Derby shoes have long been loved as a staple lace-up shoe, rivaling Oxfords, but they have a slightly different history and appeal than Oxfords. This time, we'll present them with a discussion between our atelier's craftsmen, Shirahama and Murayoshi.
[Derby Shoe Basics]
In Japan, Derby shoes are known as "outer wing" style, meaning the lacing flaps (wings) sit on top of the vamp. This design is considered the opposite of Oxfords, where the flaps are under the vamp. The widely used name is Derby, but they are sometimes also called Blucher.
[History of Derby Shoes]
Murayoshi: "In this column, Shirahama-san and I will talk about Derby shoes." Shirahama: "As a new endeavor, I hope we can naturally convey how we craftsmen discuss different shoe designs with our customers during the creation process." Murayoshi: "That's right! So, could you tell me about the history of Derby shoes?" Shirahama: "The most plausible theory for the origin of Derby shoes is that they were boots commissioned by a Field Marshal of the Kingdom of Prussia. His infantry wore them, and it's said that they were adopted by armies across Europe in celebration of their victory at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. (*1) Before then, the prevailing boots were tubular and laceless, so their walkability must have been poor. I actually saw shoes from a slightly later period than the Battle of Waterloo at the French Military Museum during my training in France. The image below was taken then, and it shows outer-wing boots made with the Norwegian construction method for the Italian army."
Photographed at the French Military Museum Italian army boots, mid-1800s
Murayoshi: "That's fascinating that shoes from that era still exist. They're laced outer-wing boots, and they certainly look easy to walk in!" Shirahama: "I agree. This is my personal view, but I think the walkability of infantry, who were the core of military strength until the 1800s, greatly influenced the outcome of battles. During the Prussian army's time, infantry reportedly accounted for 70-80% of the total force. Being able to move faster and without fatigue might have determined victory." Murayoshi: "It's also said that the shoes that were the origin of Oxfords were brought back from the East by the Crusaders. So, it seems both inner-wing and outer-wing, the two main types of lace-up shoes today, have strong ties to the military." (*2) Shirahama: "War should never happen, but I find it interesting that designs born out of historical battles have led to current fashion."
[Derby Shoe Designs]
Even among the classic Derby shoe designs, there is a wide variety, including plain-toe, straight-tip, quarter-brogue, semi-brogue, full-brogue, apron-front, and V-front. Similar to Oxfords, plain-toe and straight-tip designs are generally considered more formal, while increased ornamentation tends to make them more casual. However, in modern times, the boundaries are not as strict as they once were, and they can be incorporated into a wide range of situations depending on the material and styling. A unique characteristic of Derby shoes among lace-up shoes is that they offer more freedom in the shape of the lacing flaps compared to Oxfords. The ability to significantly alter the appearance of the instep through different flap designs is one of the charms of Derby shoes. In the following section, we will introduce each design with examples from bespoke shoes produced at our atelier.
[Types of Derby Shoes]
■Plain Toe Derby
"Bespoke Plane Toe Derby in Light Brown Goatskin Suede A classic round toe last with a raised sidewall Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole"
A clean design with no switching on the instep. The number of eyelets, shape of the lacing flaps, and last shape allow for a wide range of expressions, from modern to classic styles.
■Cap Toe Derby
Bespoke Cap-Toe Derby in Vintage Black Grain Leather A classic round toe last with a raised sidewall Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
A design with a horizontal cap on the toe.
■Quarter Brogue Derby
Bespoke Quarter-Brogue Derby in Burgundy Museum Calf Leather “ILCEA RADICA” A slim and refined almond toe last Hand-sewn welted construction with Vibram sole EVA
A design featuring decorative perforations along the cap toe line.
■Semi Brogue Derby
Bespoke Semi-Brogue Derby in Dark Brown Bison Leather A round-toed country lastToe medallion Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
This design features a medallion on the toe of a quarter brogue. It's more decorative and leans towards a casual style.
■Full Brogue Derby
BespokeFull-Brogue Derby in Light Brown Calf Leather “TANNERIE D‘ANNONAY VEGANO A slim and refined almond toe last Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
This design features a wingtip toe, with perforations and medallions, in addition to pinking (also called gimping) applied to the edges during cutting. It's a design with strong country elements.
There are also designs where the name changes depending on the appearance of the instep due to the shape of the lacing flaps or the toe cap.
■Apron Front Derby
Bespoke Apron Front Derby in Dark Brown Bison Leather A round-toed country last Norvegese construction with all-brown leather sole
A design with a seam or moccasin stitching on the vamp. In some cases, the toe pattern is split in the center, with a stitched seam or skin stitching.
■V-front Derby
Bespoke V-front Plain Toe Derby in Black Calf Leather “TANNERIES DU PUY CHATEAUBRIAND” A slim and refined almond toe last Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
A design where the lacing flaps are sharpened to create a V-shape on the instep. Since the flaps are small in this design, it is often made with three eyelets.
Designs with distinctive lacing flap shapes
■Long Brogue Derby
Bespoke Long Brogue Derby in Light Brown Calf Leather “TANNERIE D‘ANNONAY VEGANO” A slim and refined almond toe last Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
While long brogue itself refers to a design where the wingtip extends far back, the outer-wing style is almost always adopted for this design, so I will introduce it as one of the distinctive features of Derby shoes.
■Variations of Plane Toe Derby This design features a luxurious single piece of leather for the entire upper, with only the lacing flaps and tongue as separate pieces. Although it is classified as a plain toe Derby because there is no toe cap, it has a different look from the aforementioned plain toe Derby, where the vamp and quarters are separated. We will introduce three examples with different lacing flap shapes.
Bespoke Plane Toe Derby in Dark Brown Crocodile Leather A round-toed country last Norvegese construction with all-brown leather sole
Bespoke Plane Toe Derby in Brown Nubuck Crocodile Leather A contemporary almond toe last with a defined side wall Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
Bespoke Plain Toe Derby in Dark Brown Bison Leather A contemporary almond toe last with a defined side wall Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
[Derby Shoes in Dress]
Derby shoes have a history of being used as tennis shoes since the early 1900s. (*3) Compared to the inner-wing design introduced previously, they are considered slightly more sporty or casual. While fundamentally a slightly more casual design than inner-wing shoes, Derby shoes are now widely used in various settings, from business to more active scenes.
Murayoshi: "Oxfords are generally considered more formal, and Derbies are more casual. How do you discuss this with customers in actual orders?" Shirahama: "Of course, there's the basic classification of formal, dress, and casual. But in recent years, dress codes have become more relaxed, both domestically and internationally, so I offer suggestions more freely, tailored to the customer's intended use and clothing style. For example, while a plain-toe Derby is generally considered formal among Derbies, we discuss how it can be used in a wider range of situations by adopting a casual last shape, thicker sole material, or wider welt." Murayoshi: "That's right. Nowadays, it's no longer possible to definitively classify a shoe as formal, dress, or casual based solely on the upper design. Do you sometimes recommend designs after asking about the customer's intended use during their order?" Shirahama: "Sometimes I recommend designs after hearing their needs, and some customers already have a design in mind. If they're unsure, we usually finalize the design through detailed conversation with the customer. Also, with bespoke shoes, we have to create the last not only based on the design but also taking the customer's foot shape into account. So, we offer suggestions considering not only the upper design but also the last's shape and form."
[Finally]
This concludes the second installment of our shoe design commentary column, focusing on Derby shoes. Following Oxfords and Derbies, we plan to continue explaining shoe designs in the future. If you have requests for the third installment of the design commentary column or topics you'd like us to cover in future columns, please feel free to contact us via the inquiry form on our website. Additionally, you can view other production examples not featured here on Yuki Shirahama Bottier Instagram or in our Gallery.
Written by Yuki Shirahama Bottier Yuki Shirahama Asami Murayoshi
[References] *1 "DRESSING THE MAN" (Alan Flusser, HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHER) p. 195 *2 "Chaussures" (parkstone international) p. 79 *3 "SEDUCTION DE LA CHAUSSURE" (Jonathan Walfford, La Bibliotheque des Arts), p. 142