Article: RECOMMEND LEATHER LLAMA
RECOMMEND LEATHER LLAMA
As the second installment of our RECOMMEND LEATHER series, in which Yuki Shirahama Bottier introduces leathers we highly recommend, we would like to present llama leather. The llama is a camelid native to the high altitudes of the Andes in South America. Its appeal lies in the unique expression of its grain—which differs from skin to skin and even across different parts of a single hide—and a delicate suppleness comparable to baby calf. Unlike the KARAGRAIN LONGCHAMP we featured previously, this leather possesses a natural texture that cannot be replicated by embossing. We hope you enjoy this installment, which includes a conversation between our atelier's craftsmen, Shirahama and Murayoshi.
In this column, the second in our Recommend Leather series, we will introduce llama leather in detail.
Llama is characterized by its beautiful grain and suppleness. Since we first began sourcing it directly from Italy about 10 years ago, Yuki Shirahama Bottier has produced many shoes that take advantage of its unique character.
We are often asked, "What kind of animal is a llama?", so we will explain some basic characteristics below.
The llama is a camelid native to the Andean mountain regions of South America, and it looks like a slightly larger version of an alpaca.
In Japan, it is called "Ryama" or "Lama," while in English it is spelled "Llama" and in Italian "Lama." Because it is a very rare material, it is classified as an exotic leather.
The Unique Grain of Each Llama Hide
First, a notable characteristic of llama leather is its unique grain.
Unlike embossed grain leather, which is processed with a stamped, consistent pattern, llama leather is tanned to preserve the inherent markings of each individual animal; consequently, no two pieces of leather are the same.
Furthermore, because the flow and size of the grain change depending on the part of the hide, we can use these variations to enhance the character of the shoes during production.
Bespoke Apron Front Derby in Cognac Llama Leather
A round-toed country last
Norvegese construction with all-brown leather sole
Suppleness Like Baby Calf
In addition to the grain texture, another distinctive feature of llama leather is its suppleness.
The fibers are extremely dense and delicate throughout, giving it a suppleness similar to that of baby calf. As a result, it is exceptionally comfortable on the foot, making it a highly recommended material for those seeking a light and soft feel.
At our atelier, we take great care in selecting lining materials and other components to ensure the shoes maintain a solid, supportive fit while preserving the natural suppleness of the llama leather.
Burgundy Llama Leather
Differences from Box Calf
Next, to make the differences in suppleness and thickness easier to understand, we will compare it to cow calfskin, which is commonly used for men's dress shoes.
In general, European calfskin is approximately 1.4 to 1.6 mm thick. It is characterized by a dense, firm grain surface and an overall elasticity that "bounces back." While it offers excellent shape retention due to its strong structural integrity, it can sometimes take a little time to break in.
Llama, on the other hand, is approximately 0.9 to 1.1 mm thick. Compared to calfskin, it is characterized by fibers that are softer and more flexible overall. Because of this, it is less likely to press firmly against the little toe than calfskin, making it highly recommended for those who find the fit around their little toe uncomfortable during walking.
Measuring the thickness of Llama Leather
Color Lineup
We currently carry the following colors:
Black
Dark Brown
Navy
Burgundy
*Cognac is sold out, with the current pair in production being the last.
Changes in Texture Through Finishing
The llama leather we use at our atelier has a slightly matte texture in its raw, unfinished state; however, by applying an antique finish, it is possible to achieve a deep luster and a sophisticated, dark color. Regarding home care, you can maintain the shoes after delivery using standard shoe cream.
Actual Production Examples Using Llama
Here are some examples of llama leather shoes crafted at our atelier in the past.
Bespoke Long Vamp Oxford in Burgundy Llama Leather
A classic chisel toe –a sartorial shape
Toe medallion
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
Bespoke Long Vamp Oxford in Black Llama Leather
A classic chisel toe –a sartorial shape
Toe medallion
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
(Right) Bespoke Quarter-Brogue Oxford in Cognac Llama leather with antique finish
A modern chisel-toe last with a defined side wall
Hand-sewn welt construction with all light brown leather sole
Bespoke Long Vamp Punched Cup Oxford in Dark Brown Llama Leather
A classic chisel toe –a sartorial shape
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
Bespoke Full-Brogue Oxford in Cognac Llama Leather
A modern chisel-toe last with a defined side wall
Toe medallion
Hand-sewn welted construction with all light brown leather sole
Bespoke Apron Front Derby in Navy Llama Leather
A modern chisel-toe last with a defined side wall
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
Bespoke Commando Sole Double Monk Strap in Dark Brown Llama Leather
A slim and refined almond toe last
Original buckle in sterling silver 925
Hand-sewn welt construction with Vibram sole No.100
Bespoke Long Belted Loafers in Dark Brown Llama Leather and Crocodile Leather with antique finish
A softed chisel toe last with raised side-wall
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
Bespoke Chukka Boots in Dark Brown Llama Leather
A slim and refined almond toe last
Hand-sewn welt construction with Vibram sole No.100
A Craftsman's Perspective on Llama
Murayoshi: "In this column, we have introduced llama leather, an upper material we handle at our atelier."
Shirahama: "Following the column on derby shoes, this time we will conclude with a conversation between Murayoshi and myself about the characteristics of llama leather from the perspective of the makers."
Murayoshi: "To start with a question, Shirahama-san, what kind of designs do you think suit the llama leather we introduced this time?"
Shirahama: "Basically, I think it suits almost any design. Oxfords, derbies, loafers, boots—it works with everything. However, while this applies to all grain leathers and not just llama, it might not be the most suitable choice for formal footwear."
Murayoshi: "That's true. We have crafted it into various designs, and each has its own merits. By the way, I felt that the examples introduced this time are relatively understated in design."
Shirahama: "Yes, I think it looks excellent when you dare to use llama on traditional designs."
Murayoshi: "Is there a specific construction method suitable for using llama leather?"
Shirahama: "Since llama is soft and delicate, I believe it particularly benefits from bespoke hand-making techniques. Factory production often relies heavily on machinery, which can lead to over-stretching the leather beyond its capacity during the lasting process using a toe-laster, or causing increased damage. That is exactly why hand-lasting, where one can delicately sense the stretch rate of the material through the fingertips, is more suitable."
Murayoshi: "I agree. Regarding bottoming, because of the delicacy of the grain, I also feel that hand-sewn welted construction—which allows for adjusting the tension stitch by stitch—is more suitable than Goodyear welting. Also, about the finishing, we have used not just shoe cream but also patina techniques on the llama shoes we’ve made so far. While I think cream alone provides moisture and a certain depth of color, why do you add the extra step of dyeing?"
Shirahama: "A large part of it is because we want to further bring out the unique grain and texture of the llama. Unlike embossed leathers, llama is characterized by a natural, irregular grain that is instantly recognizable as llama at a glance. Since no two are the same, each finished pair of shoes has a distinct expression. That’s precisely why I like to apply an antique finish to accentuate that individuality and create an even deeper, more complex texture."
Murayoshi: "I see. So, the depth of color and luster from the antique finish highlights the unique texture of the llama. By the way, some readers might be curious about the fitting sensation of llama leather; how does it feel to wear shoes made from it?"
Shirahama: "Llama leather is soft, so the fact that it is less likely to bother the little toe is a good point in terms of fit. Also, because it has low elasticity and is soft, it stretches easily. So, when crafting shoes from llama, I sometimes shape the last a little slimmer than I would for calfskin, taking that stretchability into account. In those adjustments, I sometimes change not just the width, but also the instep and bottom dimensions slightly compared to calf. I believe it is important to progress by confirming with the customer during the fitting stage to ensure we achieve the comfort they desire."
Murayoshi: "Being able to provide that level of service is the strength of bespoke shoes. I feel that llama leather is thinner than other upper materials; how does that thinness affect the final result? For instance, does it make the finished shape look sharper compared to thicker leathers like kudu (approx. 3mm)?"
Shirahama: "Yes, it certainly makes it look sharper. It brings out a smart, stylish look, so I finish the shoes in shapes that leverage those material characteristics."
Conclusion
We have introduced llama as the second recommended upper leather material from Yuki Shirahama Bottier. Regarding current stock, cognac is sold out, while black, burgundy, dark brown, and navy are still available; however, the stock of black is running quite low. Future restocks are currently undecided, so if you are interested, please let us know when you inquire.
We plan to continue introducing recommended leathers in the future. If you have any requests for the third installment of our leather explanation column or any content you would like us to cover, please contact us via the inquiry form on our website.
Additionally, you can view production examples other than those posted here on the Yuki Shirahama Bottier Instagram or our Gallery.
Written by
Yuki Shirahama Bottier
Yuki Shirahama
Asami Murayoshi