Bespoke guide
Bespoke shoes are full-order shoes that are made from scratch for each individual customer through numerous processes, rather than selecting a finished product like off-the-shelf shoes. At our atelier, we adjust the fitting and refine the last shape throughout the process, from measuring to trial fitting and completion.
For this reason, many people have questions such as "Will they really fit my feet?", "How much can be adjusted?", and "How does the process proceed?". Here, based on frequently asked questions, we will explain the fitting, trial fitting, design, materials, ordering, and other aspects in an organized manner.
For New Users
A. Yes, of course you can place an order.
Regarding the design, we can propose one after discussing the occasion you'll be using it for and your clothing preferences, or you can choose from examples of our atelier's work.
Furthermore, regarding fittings, we proceed with multiple basted fittings, confirming at each stage. This allows even first-time customers to gradually understand the progress of the production.
A. Bespoke shoes are full custom-made shoes, designed and crafted from scratch to fit the shape of your foot.
Instead of selecting a size as you would with ready-made shoes, we grasp the condition of your feet through measurements, and then confirm and adjust the fitting during a trial fitting before proceeding to completion.
A major characteristic is that we don't determine the final state in one go; instead, we refine the precision throughout the process.
Furthermore, at our atelier, all production is carried out in-house, so the beautiful finish achieved through advanced techniques is also a hallmark of our work.
A. The biggest difference is "how much the shoe last can be adjusted."
With ready-to-wear shoes, you choose a size from pre-made shapes, and if it doesn't fit, adjustments are limited to post-production modifications such as insoles or spot stretching.
Therefore, while it may be possible to alleviate pressure on specific areas of the foot, it is difficult to fundamentally adjust the overall fit of the foot.
MTO allows for changes in width and specifications based on a foundational shoe last, but since the basic last is common, adjustments are limited to partial corrections. While it's possible to, for example, widen the shoe, it's difficult to optimize the foot's shape, angle, and overall fit.
Bespoke, on the other hand, designs shoes based on measurement data and foot observations, taking into account not only the shape of the foot but also the angle from heel to toe when the foot is inserted, the distribution of body weight, and the unique skeletal structure and walking characteristics of each customer. A dedicated shoe last is then created, and the fitting is progressively adjusted through trial fittings.
Therefore, not only can specific pressure points be relieved, but the entire foot can be guided into a natural fit, resulting in a significant improvement in comfort.
Furthermore, in terms of craftsmanship, ready-to-wear shoes are mass-produced, while MTO tends to involve more manual work by artisans, and bespoke shoes require even more advanced artisanal skills. Thus, each of the three types has distinct characteristics in terms of finish precision.
Similarly, in terms of design, the degree of design freedom generally increases in the order of ready-to-wear shoes → MTO → bespoke shoes.
Bespoke is characterized by the fact that instead of choosing from predetermined options, you work closely with the designer to determine your preferred design. Detailed requests such as adding perforations or stitches can also be accommodated.
A. The main difference lies in the purpose of their design.
Orthopedic shoes are designed primarily for correction, protection, pressure relief, and walking assistance, based on medical necessity.
These shoes prioritize functionality, such as pain reduction and walking support.
Bespoke shoes, on the other hand, are designed to fit an individual's foot while aiming for a balance between aesthetic form and comfort. The characteristic feature is that they are finished not only with fitting in mind but also considering the visual balance and overall impression.
Although both orthopedic shoes and bespoke shoes are made to fit the foot, their purposes and design philosophies differ significantly.
A.
・People with small or large feet who struggle to find shoes that fit or designs they like among ready-made options.
・Those who experience pressure on bunions, hammer toes, ankles, or little toes.
・Those whose heels slip out.
・Those who experience different fits on their left and right feet.
These are common reasons why customers place orders with us.
Additionally, many customers order from us seeking the beautiful finish and high-level craftsmanship unique to our bespoke shoes.
A. As a general rule, lasts and measurement data are stored for 10 years.
It is also possible to produce shoes of a different design based on a last created in the past.
By using the same last, reorders can be placed based on the fitting adjusted in the initial order.
However, depending on the design, a new last may need to be made.
For example,
・When the last design concept differs significantly (the last design concept for lace-up shoes like Oxfords differs from that of loafers or boots)
・When the toe shape changes
In such cases, it is difficult to accommodate with an existing last, so we recommend a new design.
A. Shoe lasts are designed based on how the foot fits and moves when worn, so we need to redesign the foot shape from a static state.
When making a shoe last, we also consider factors such as arch stability, fore-aft balance, weight distribution, and the pressure required when worn. Therefore, the shape of the foot itself and the required shape of the last do not always match.
For this reason, we create the last after redesigning the shape to function as a shoe, based on measurements and foot shape information.
About Fitting
A. Yes, we do.
Even after multiple fittings and try-ons during the production process, you may still feel some discomfort after delivery.
In such cases, we will make adjustments as much as possible, even after delivery.
However, due to the structure of the shoes, there are parts that cannot be significantly altered, so we may not be able to eliminate all discomfort.
Therefore, we will assess the condition and make adjustments within the feasible range.
A. Some bespoke shoe makers say that "the shoes will be perfect after the second or third pair." However, at our workshop, we aim to create a fitting that satisfies you from the very first pair.
However, what constitutes "perfection" varies greatly from person to person, and perceptions differ significantly, so we cannot make a definitive statement.
A. No problem.
In reality, most people have some asymmetry, and very few have perfectly identical feet.
During the fitting, we check the contact and pressure differences for each foot and make adjustments accordingly.
A. It is not uncommon for the fit to differ between the left and right feet.
Even with the same size, the feeling of fit can vary due to differences in bone structure, muscle development, dominant foot, and walking habits.
In bespoke shoe-making, we adjust each foot individually while checking its condition to achieve a balanced fit with minimal discomfort.
About the Basting
A. A trial fitting is the process of creating a trial-specific shoe before producing the actual shoes for delivery, and then having you wear it to confirm and adjust the fit.
We check for pressure points on your little toe or ankle, leather tension, heel fit and slippage, and any discomfort when walking, and then decide on modifications on the spot.
Our atelier generally conducts two trial fittings. The first is a trial fitting with clear resin, and the second is with a leather trial shoe.
For fitting, we visually check the inside of the shoe during the clear resin trial fitting, and with the leather trial fitting, we check not only in a static state but also the sensation when moving. For design, at the clear resin stage, we discuss the overall form and toe shape, and with the leather trial fitting, we discuss more detailed design lines.
A. For fitting, we mainly check the following points:
・Pressure on the forefoot
・Fit of the instep
・Heel retention
・Discomfort when walking
・Areas where bones or arches are rubbing
In addition, we check and adjust various points, such as the way creases appear, the shoe's conformity to foot movements, and other necessary aspects while observing the condition of the foot.
Regarding design, we aim to create shoes that better match the customer's image through discussions about:
・The shape of the last's toe
・Minor adjustments to design lines (during leather mock-ups)
A. In terms of fitting, most aspects related to fitting, such as the width of the forefoot, the pressure on the instep, and the heel hold, can be adjusted. Additionally, the design can be modified to your preferences, as long as it maintains functionality when worn.
For fitting, during the basted fitting, we visually and tactilely check each point to confirm how pressure is applied, and we also listen to your own comfort preferences.
Points determined to require adjustment are recorded numerically, taken back to be reflected in the last and pattern, and then corrected in the next basted fitting or in the stage before completion.
For design, we will propose the best balance while listening to your preferences on various points such as the topline, moccasin stitching line, wingtip, facing, and counter.
A. Typically, there are two fittings, but a third may be performed depending on the condition. We believe that the number of fittings is not as important as ensuring no discomfort remains.
As for the order of fittings, the first fitting generally uses a clear resin fitting shoe, and the second fitting uses a leather fitting shoe.
During the clear resin fitting, we check fitting points, such as where strong pressure is applied to the foot inside the shoe, or conversely, which points are not touching, and the balance of the last.
In the leather fitting, after making corrections based on the first fitting, we conduct a more in-depth design consultation and confirm the fitting while walking.
Common Fitting Problems
A. Yes, it is possible.
With ready-made shoes, it is common for the little toe to rub due to a mismatch between the last and the angle and width of the foot.
With bespoke shoes, we can create a last perfectly suited to each customer's foot, from toe to heel, based on their measurements.
Additionally, we can adjust the width and thickness of the forefoot to correct pressure distribution.
Furthermore, since the way a shoe rubs can change due to the load applied during walking, we make appropriate adjustments while checking with temporary fittings.
A. Yes, it is possible.
Compared to lace-up shoes, slip-ons have a shallower topline and are designed in a way that makes the foot more prone to slipping forward, causing the heel to easily come out.
Furthermore, since slip-ons cannot be adjusted with laces, fitting must be achieved primarily by securing the instep and holding the heel.
With ready-made shoes, contact between the foot and shoe tends to be at specific points, making it difficult to achieve sufficient hold in some cases. However, with bespoke shoes, we design them to match the entire shape of the foot, allowing for a fit that supports the foot broadly.
As a result, we adjust the shoes to suppress the foot from slipping forward and prevent the heel from coming out easily.
A.If you find off-the-rack shoes tight across the instep, it's likely due to a high instep structure. Conversely, if they feel loose, you probably have a low instep.
At our atelier, for bespoke shoe production, we design the last based on precise measurements taken during the fitting process, allowing us to create a last that perfectly matches the height of your instep.
By using a last and pattern tailored to your feet, you can experience optimal comfort.
A. It is possible to achieve a good fit even with flat feet.
With flat feet, the instep tends to be lower, making it difficult to achieve a good fit with ready-made shoes.
Our bespoke atelier individually designs the volume of the instep of the last and the arch shape, bringing the shoe closer to a comfortable, foot-hugging state without force.
Additionally, we make adjustments while also considering walking stability.
A. It is not uncommon for creasing to differ between the left and right shoes, and we do not consider it a major issue unless there is a significant difference in the depth of the creases.
This is because no one's feet are perfectly symmetrical; there are differences in shape, range of motion, and how weight is applied when walking.
However, if there is an extreme bias in the position or pattern of the creases, it may affect future comfort, such as the upper biting into the big toe and causing pain, in which case fitting adjustments may be necessary. In such cases, we will investigate the cause at the basted fitting, make corrections at the next basted fitting or delivery, and then produce your shoes.
About Design
A. Please rest assured that even if you are having trouble deciding on a design, we will propose one to you after carefully listening to your needs, including the occasion you plan to use it for and your clothing preferences.
A. You are free to choose from basic designs including bluchers (Oxfords), derbys, slip-ons, and chukka boots. You can also specify perforations and moccasin stitching to your liking.
At our atelier, we design shoes by incorporating customer requests while considering the appearance of the shoe alone, as well as its beauty and balance when worn.
A. While it's possible to use them as reference, we cannot perfectly replicate sample shoes as each pair is custom-made to the client's feet.
With bespoke shoes, the design is based on the foot last. Therefore, even if we create a similar upper design, the balance and lines will differ from the sample shoes.
A. Yes, it is possible.
However, for your first order, we recommend lace-up shoes (either Oxford or Derby style).
Loafers and slip-ons have a narrower fitting tolerance because they cannot be adjusted with laces, making the design precision more critical. However, at our atelier, we enhance the accuracy of fit confirmation through multiple fittings, including those using transparent resin, which allows for ordering these styles even for your first pair.
Nonetheless, ordering loafers as a second pair, after establishing fitting standards with lace-up shoes, generally leads to a higher degree of precision in the finished product.
Especially for loafers, the balance between heel retention and instep fit is crucial, so we will focus on confirming and adjusting these points thoroughly.
A. At our atelier, we design shoes that balance both comfort and appearance. However, if we were to prioritize only the fit during the design process, the overall balance could be compromised.
This is particularly true for Japanese feet, which tend to have smaller heels relative to the forefoot, making them more susceptible to such issues.
Therefore, we meticulously adjust the proportions down to the millimeter to achieve the perfect balance between fit and aesthetics.
A. Yes, you can choose.
You can choose from basic toe shapes such as round, chisel, and semi-square, but the amount of empty space in the toe box (the space in the toe part of the shoe where the foot does not enter) will vary greatly depending on the balance with the shape and size of your foot.
At our atelier, we propose toe shapes that are suitable for each customer, taking into account the balance between foot width and length, toe length, and physique.
After deciding on the basic toe shape at the initial consultation, we will make fine adjustments through further discussions while checking how the shoes look when worn and how easy they are to walk in during the fitting.
Materials & Manufacturing
A. We will make suggestions based on your intended use, design, and desired finish.
Even with the same calf leather, the texture and aging process can vary greatly depending on the finish and the tannery, so you will choose while viewing actual samples.
You can select your preferred leather from a wide variety collected from all over the world.
A. Yes, they do.
Softer leathers conform to your feet more quickly, while stiffer leathers tend to maintain their shape better.
We recommend materials that are suitable for your intended use and preferred feel.
A. While some leathers are relatively water-resistant, none are completely waterproof.
Embossed leather and oil-infused leather tend to be more water-resistant, but in any case, if you want waterproof performance, proper care such as regularly applying a waterproof spray is necessary.
A. Yes, you can choose.
You can choose from a rich lineup of leathers such as crocodile, lizard, shark, and ostrich, so please consult us.
A. It depends on the type and finish of the leather.
Smooth leather will become shinier, and napped materials will change in texture.
Since it also changes depending on how you wear and care for them, we explain this at the time of order and delivery. If you have any requests, we can also provide information on daily care methods.
A. Our atelier's shoes are basically made with leather soles using the hand-sewn welt method, but if you wish, you can also choose Vibram command soles, Dainite soles, or lightweight EVA.
A. The basic manufacturing method is hand-sewn welting.
This method involves hand-processing an insole that is thicker than those used in Goodyear welting or McKay welting, which are common in ready-to-wear shoes. This insole is then hand-stitched to the upper and welt by a craftsman.
A characteristic of the hand-sewn welted method is that the cork filler can be designed to be thin, which prevents the insole from sinking even after prolonged use. Additionally, the robustness of the insole provides durability, allowing it to withstand repeated resoling.
Furthermore, our atelier's unique manufacturing method also pursues greater flexibility.
In addition to the hand-sewn welted method, our atelier also accepts orders for Norwegian welted bespoke shoes.
Examples using various materials can be seen in the Gallery.
About Orders, Payments, Visits, Repairs, and More
A. We generally require four visits to our store.
① Order placement, measurements, and consultation
② First fitting (using clear resin trial shoes)
③ Second fitting (using leather trial shoes)
④ Delivery
Each step progresses approximately every 3 to 4 months, and the delivery time is about 1 to 1.5 years.
Please note that if multiple visits are difficult, for example, due to living far away, we can make arrangements such as conducting the first and second fittings simultaneously, depending on the situation. Delivery by mail is also available.
A. It takes approximately one to one and a half years.
The process of measuring, basted fitting, and adjusting is carried out in multiple stages, with a certain period allocated between each stage.
During this time, we repeatedly confirm and refine the fitting until completion.
A. The price will vary mainly depending on the material you choose, and additional fees will be incurred for additional specifications such as the installation of vintage steel.
We will guide you through the details as you confirm the contents when placing your order.
A. We accept the following payment methods:
・Bank transfer
・Credit card (VISA / Mastercard / JCB / American Express)
・PayPal
If you live in Japan but outside Kyoto City, you can also use the Furusato Nozei (hometown tax donation) system.
If you wish to use Furusato Nozei, please search for "Yuki Shirahama Bottier" on websites such as "Furusato Choice," "Furu Navi," "Rakuten Furusato Nozei," and "Satofuru."
A. Bespoke shoes require precise measurements by a craftsman, so orders are generally made in person.
If you are unable to visit our atelier in Kyoto, you can also place an order at our personal order events held several times a year in Tokyo and Fukuoka.
Information on event dates is announced on our website, so if you are unable to visit us, please consider attending one of those events.
A. Yes, it is possible.
If visiting our atelier in Kyoto is difficult for you, you can also place an order at our personal order events held several times a year in Tokyo and Fukuoka.
Information on event dates will be announced on our website, so please check them and consider attending at your convenience.
A. Yes, we can.
We offer various repair services, including full sole replacements, heel replacements, and vintage steel installations.
We will assess the condition and perform repairs using the appropriate methods.
For appointments and consultations, please feel free to contact us via CONTACT.