The process behind Bespoke: Basting - Vol.2

The creation of bespoke shoes involves a process of shaping sensations that cannot be measured numerically. At Yuki Shirahama Bottier, we emphasize the key "trial fitting (trial shoes)." As a core part of this process, we conduct resin trial fittings to carefully assess the relationship between the foot and the shoe.

Following up on the previous article, this time we will discuss "resin trial fittings." At Yuki Shirahama Bottier, we typically perform two trial fittings. For the first of these, we use transparent resin trial shoes. A major feature of this step is the ability to visually confirm the condition inside the shoe.

Unlike leather trial shoes, resin trial shoes cannot be worn for walking tests. Therefore, we have customers wear them in a standing position to carefully observe the relationship between the foot and the shoe.

Transparent resin trial shoes are worn in two ways: with socks and barefoot. While asking the customer about their wearing sensation, we mark adjustments on various parts.

As shown in the photo, areas where the skin color turns white indicate where the foot is pressed against the inside of the shoe. Since this is for a slip-on, we are aiming for a fitting where there is slight pressure on the forefoot to prevent the foot from sliding forward inside the shoe.

We mark these areas with a pen and determine the amount of correction needed, judging how much "addition" or "subtraction" is required and where.

There are many points to assess, but we particularly focus on the following:
1. Does the foot fit comfortably in the shoe (direction and angle)?
2. Are there any unnecessary gaps in the top line of the upper?
3. The position of bones, tendons supporting foot movement, and the condition of hardened calluses.
4. Is the toe balance appropriate?
5. Is the fitting approaching the customer's desired feel?

Based on these comprehensive judgments, we determine the areas that need correction on the last. Another appealing aspect of this process is that customers can see for themselves, through the transparent resin, "how their foot changes and fits inside the shoe."

Based on the information obtained from the resin trial fitting, we proceed with last modifications, pattern making, and upper construction. Approximately six months after the first trial fitting, we conduct a second fitting using leather trial shoes.

Next time, we will introduce this second trial fitting.
Finally, we extend our sincere gratitude to Mr. I for his cooperation with the photo shoot.

The Bespoke Process: Trial Fitting – Vol. 1 –
The Bespoke Process: Trial Fitting – Vol. 3 –

Authored by
Yuki Shirahama Bottier
Yuki Shirahama
Asami Murayoshi