Article: TALK ABOUT LOAFERS − Shoes for the free-spirited man −
TALK ABOUT LOAFERS − Shoes for the free-spirited man −
A column series introducing classic shoe designs in detail. This time, we will introduce loafers.
Loafers are slip-on leather shoes that can be easily taken on and off, and are now loved in a wide range of styles from business to casual. There are various designs such as penny loafers, tassel loafers, and bit loafers, and they have a different charm from lace-up shoes.
Actually, loafers were not created by a specific country or person, but are a design that has developed in multiple countries such as Norway, Britain, and America.
This time too, we will deliver the history and design of loafers while incorporating a talk between our atelier's craftsmen, Shirahama and Murayoshi.
【The Basics of Loafers】
Loafers are slip-on leather shoes that do not need to be secured with shoelaces or buckles.
Some have moccasin stitching, straps, tassels, or metal decorations on the instep, and are classified as penny loafers, tassel loafers, bit loafers, etc., depending on the design.
The English word "Loafer" originally means a "lazy person" or "someone who idles around". There are various theories about how it came to be used as a shoe name, but it is a name that also resonates with the nature of being a shoe that can be worn casually.
【The History of Loafers】
Murayoshi: "This time, we will talk about loafers. Speaking of loafers, they are very familiar leather shoes today, but I hear that the cultures of multiple countries are actually involved."
Shirahama: "That is exactly right, and when you trace the history of loafers, you will find that they have many roots. For example, when tracing the history of loafers, the first thing that appears is leather shoes made in Aurland, Western Norway. It is known as one of the shoes that led to the modern loafer."
Murayoshi: "Aurland Shoe, right? How was this shoe born?"
Shirahama: "It is said that the shoemaker Nils Tveranger developed the Aurland shoe by drawing inspiration from Native American moccasins and the traditional shoes made by Norwegian fishermen. (*1)
The early models had shoelaces and eyelets, but later developed into the form that led to the current Aurland shoe, incorporating the characteristics of moccasins."
Murayoshi: "So it wasn't a slip-on type from the beginning. It is interesting that it was born from the combination of moccasin culture and traditional Norwegian shoes."
Shirahama: "That is what makes it interesting. Moccasins are shoes with a structure where soft leather is sewn along the shape of the foot, giving them a unique fit. It seems that such a shoe culture influenced Nordic shoemaking as well."
Murayoshi: "It seems that around the same time as Aurland, shoes that led to loafers were also made in Britain."
Shirahama: "That brings us to the British shoe manufacturer Wildsmith. In 1926, Raymond Lewis Wildsmith is said to have designed comfortable and casual shoes for the Duke of York, the future George VI, to wear when relaxing at his country house. (*2)
These shoes are also known as part of the history that led to the modern loafer."
Murayoshi: "It is interesting that shoes born from the idea of shoes for relaxing indoors spread as shoes for going out, as they are today."
Shirahama: "That's right. And one of the brands that popularized loafers in America was G.H.BASS.
The 'Weejuns' released by G.H.BASS in 1936 has the same shape as today's penny loafer, but it is said to have been named from a dialect pronunciation of 'Norwegian'. (*3)
These Norwegian-style shoes first gained popularity in London, and it seems that what American travelers found in London spread, and they soon became worn in America as well. (*4)"
Murayoshi: "Weejuns are penny loafers that are still commonly seen today! There is a leather strap on the instep, and there is also a characteristic slit in the center.
It is from the habit of inserting a penny coin into this slit that they came to be called penny loafers."
Shirahama: "The story of American students inserting coins is known as the origin of the name penny loafer. There are theories that it was a lucky charm, or that they carried a one-cent coin to use public telephones, but there are various theories about its origin. (*5)
Penny loafers became widely worn among Ivy League students from the 1950s to the 60s. Associated with the classic American student style of pairing blazers and chinos, penny loafers became established as a classic design. There are also photos of relaxed styling pairing penny loafers with shorts. (*6)"
Murayoshi: "Looking back like this, we can see that brands from Norway, Britain, America, and other countries with different backgrounds have shaped the history of the modern loafer.
This time, we have traced the history of loafers from Europe to America, but when viewed from the perspective of slip-on shoes worn without laces, they have a much older history."
Shirahama: "If you delve into slip-ons in terms of their true origin, there is a much grander history. For example, in China and other places, slip-on shoes called Chinese shoes had been made for thousands of years."
Murayoshi: "Considering the existence of such shoes, we can see that the shape itself of wearing shoes without laces was not born in only one specific region."
Shirahama: "That's right. Slip-on shoes are a shape that has been born around the world according to their respective cultures and lifestyles. Rather than being created by only one specific brand, there is a background where shoes of similar shapes were independently made in various places. Therefore, I think it is difficult to conclude the origin of slip-ons by narrowing it down to one point of where and by whom they were first developed."
Murayoshi: "It is a shape that was not completed in one country, but was born and developed in the shoe cultures of various places around the world."
【About Loafer Design】
Loafers have various designs depending on the instep decoration, moccasin shape, and upper pattern. Representative examples include penny loafers, tassel loafers, and bit loafers.
Also, the impression changes greatly not only by the presence or absence of decoration, but also by the length of the vamp, the instep cut line, and the moccasin sewing method.
Unlike lace-up shoes, since the instep cannot be tightened and adjusted, it is a design where the last shape, instep height, opening design, and wrap-around fit are particularly important.
Below, we will introduce representative loafer and slip-on designs along with photos of bespoke shoes made at our atelier.
【Types of Loafers】
■Penny Loafer
Bespoke Penny Loafer in Dark Brown Leather
A contemporary almond toe loafer last with a defined side wall
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
This is a design with a strap on the instep.
The slit provided in the center of the strap is a characteristic feature, and it is said that they came to be called penny loafers from the habit of inserting a one-cent coin into this part. It is one of the most classic designs among loafers, and is widely incorporated into everything from classic styles to modern outfits.
Bespoke Penny Loafers in Black Calf Leather “TANNERIES DU PUY CHATEAUBRIAND”
A rounded loafer last with an oval toe shape
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
Bespoke Unlined Penny Loafers in Black Utah Calf
A rounded loafer last with a defined side wall
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
Bespoke Penny Loafers in Black Calf Leather “TANNERIES DU PUY CHATEAUBRIAND”
A rounded loafer last with an oval toe shape
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
■Tassel Loafer
Bespoke Hand-Stitched Tassel Loafers in Black Calf Leather “TANNERIES DU PUY CHATEAUBRIAND”
A slim and refined almond toe last
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
This is a design with tassels (fringe decoration) on the instep.
The expression changes depending on the size and shape of the tassels, the material and braiding of the laces, and the cut line of the topline, and it has a different splendor from penny loafers.
It is a design that can be widely matched from jacket styles to more casual styling.
■Bit Loafer
Bespoke Hand-Stitched Bit Loafers in Dark Brown Kudu Leather
A rounded loafer last with an oval toe shape
Original brass bit
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
This is a design with metal decoration on the instep.
The metal decoration becomes an accent, and it is a design that has an elegant impression among loafers. Depending on the material and shape of the bit, the impression can look classic or gorgeous.
Special Edition - Slip-ons
■Plain-toe Slip-on
Bespoke Plain-toe Slip-on in Dark Brown Suede Leather
A softened chisel toe last with raised side-wall
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
This is a slip-on type design finished simply without a seam or decoration on the instep or toe. Since it does not have decorations like penny loafers or tassel loafers, the texture and form of the upper leather, and the silhouette of the last determine the overall impression of the design.
It is characterized by a minimalist expression that removes unnecessary elements, and it is a design that enhances the beauty of the material and last.
■Saddle Slip-on
Bespoke Saddle Slip-on in Dark Brown Llama Leather and Dark Brown Crocodile Leather
A softened chisel toe last with raised side-wall
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
This is a slip-on with a belt (saddle) like a loafer. Since there is no moccasin, Yuki Shirahama Bottier classifies it as a slip-on rather than a loafer.
In the posted example, by using llama leather overall and crocodile leather for the belt, the interestingness of the material is enhanced.
■Elastic Slip-on
Bespoke Brogue Elastic Slip-On in Dark Brown Calf Leather with patina “TANNERIE D’ANNONAY VEGANO”
A slim and refined almond toe last
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
This is a slip-on with elastic on the center instep part of the tan.
Compared to loafers, the opening is a little narrow, but because there is elastic, it is easy to take on and off, and because the opening is small, it has a slightly calm impression, and it is a design suitable for clean outfits.
■Wingtip Tassel Slip-on
Bespoke Wingtip Tassel Slip-On in Dark Brown Bison Leather
A slim and refined almond toe last
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-brown leather sole
This is a slip-on with imitation or seam wingtips on the toe part.
This time, we posted two types of imitation wingtip examples, but you can enjoy a different atmosphere with and without a belt (saddle).
The example with the long belt above has a wide opening and is finished with a classic impression. The example without a belt has a stripped-down beauty because there is no belt.
Also, imitation wingtips express the wingtip with only stitching and brogueing (hole decoration), so it has an elegant impression.
Bespoke Wingtip Tassel Slip-On in Black Suede Leather
A slim and refined almond toe last
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
■Opera Slipper
Bespoke Opera Slipper in Black Shrink Leather
A rounded loafer last with an oval toe shape
Hand-sewn welted construction with all-black leather sole
Originally around 1950, it was a shoe for indoor use used for dinner time outfits like opera pumps, but now it is used for outdoor use.
Nowadays, it is also called a Spock shoe or a Doctor shoe.
【Loafers in Outfits】
Loafers originally have a background as indoor shoes or casual shoes, but now they have come to be incorporated into business and dress styles. From traditional designs like penny loafers to designs like tassel loafers and bit loafers, they have a wide range of expressions depending on the decoration, material, and last shape.
Murayoshi: "One of the charms of loafers is that the range of styles that can be matched is very wide. Of course, it can be incorporated into various outfits such as casual outfits, vintage clothes, denim, and shorts."
Shirahama: "That's right. I think loafers are shoes whose impression changes greatly depending on the clothes and materials they are matched with. They suit formal outfits like dress shoes, and if you match them with a casual style, they tighten up your feet just right. Since you can also play with the type, color, and texture of leather, I think they are an essential part of modern fashion."
Murayoshi: "When you think of loafers, many people have an image of matching them with light spring and summer outfits, but actually, they are shoes that can be worn all year round."
Shirahama: "Certainly, I think there is no specific season for loafers themselves. The important thing is not to decide the season with the shoe alone, but to look at the overall balance with the combination of clothes."
Murayoshi: "For example, what kind of proposal do you make to people who think that long-haired black suede will have a slightly heavy impression in summer outfits?"
Shirahama: "Long-haired black suede can sometimes be taken as a slightly heavy impression in summer. However, it does not necessarily mean it is not suitable for summer. Depending on the design and the scene of wearing, it can be incorporated into summer. For example, by widening the opening and increasing the visible skin, it becomes a seasonal and refreshing impression."
Murayoshi: "Certainly, the image changes greatly depending on the design line and specifications. I feel that even changing small specifications such as the gloss of the beading and the buckle changes the atmosphere.
Also, in contrast to summer black suede, when matching light-colored shoes in winter, the balance can be taken with the color and material of the clothes."
Shirahama: "Yes, for example, if the pants are a light color, even in winter, beige or light brown, etc., light-colored shoes will naturally blend in. There is absolutely no need to decide the color of the shoes by the season alone, and it is good to choose while looking at the overall cohesion of the clothes, including the texture of the material.
Also, as Murayoshi says, small specifications and last shapes are also factors that completely change the atmosphere. For example, even with a classic penny loafer, if you make the last sharp, it becomes a dressy impression, and if you adopt a rounded last or a thick sole, it can also make a casual atmosphere."
Murayoshi: "That's right, in bespoke, we can adjust the specifications and lines according to the customer's image, and considering the history of the slip-on itself, we would like you to not think about it difficult and please incorporate it into free coordination."
Shirahama: "That's right. Because it is a very versatile shoe.
By the way, this is a coordination I saw in a book and felt very impressive, but around 1935, there is a photo when photographer Cecil Beaton participated in a dance party in Southern France.
It was a styling that matched black enamel opera pumps with a white suit, white T-shirt, and white socks, and this was introduced as a coordination that deliberately deviated from the classic dress code, but when I saw that photo, I felt a very free spirit. The shoes are opera pumps for the dinner party, firmly following the TPO, but adding unexpectedness with the clothes. It may be an exceptional coordination because of Cecil Beaton's personality and the atmosphere of that dance party. (*7)"
Yuki Shirahama Bottier Antique Opera Pumps (Year Unknown)
Murayoshi: "Cecil is a really stylish person who successfully combines unexpected styling by only following the TPO with shoes! The point may be that no matter how much you add to the clothes, you keep the shoes as the night formal dress code."
Speaking of TPO, nowadays the dress code has become somewhat relaxed, but if you consider it, is it a little taboo to match penny loafers or tassel loafers with formal wear?"
Shirahama: "Even today, I think you need to differentiate when strict TPO is required at weddings, funerals, and other ceremonies. At weddings and funerals, it may be safer to wear black Oxfords."
Murayoshi: "By the way, as touched upon in the history part, loafers have been loved by each brand for many years in their long history. It is the image that the completed last shape and beautiful design are loved by people all over the world.
For those whose feet fit the fitting of those shoes, there is no problem, but there are also people who have concerns about the comfort of wearing them. Especially loafers cannot adjust the fit with laces, so it is difficult to find a pair that fits the foot in ready-made shoes."
Shirahama: "That is a content that we are often consulted about. For example, people who are having trouble choosing shoes due to flat feet or hallux valgus, people with high insteps, or conversely, people whose feet move in the shoes because their insteps are low, everyone has their own foot problems, so there are parts that ready-made shoes cannot fully respond to."
Murayoshi: "We would like customers who have foot problems to know the option of bespoke."
Shirahama: "Of course, just because it is bespoke, we cannot say it will fit 100% to the foot, but since the last can be adjusted to that person's foot, there is a high possibility of enhancing the fit compared to ready-made shoes. Especially in the case of loafers, the opening can open up, and when viewed from above, it can become a laughing state with a gaping mouth, or it can make a sound like air is being released every time you walk, but by adjusting the last, such problems can also be suppressed to the maximum extent."
Murayoshi: "However, what we would like the customers who purchase to understand is that due to the design characteristics of loafers, they can only be held at the heel and the shallow part of the instep, so it is a shape where the foot tends to move forward, and it is easy to feel the pressure of the instep."
Shirahama: "That is an important part. Compared to ready-made shoes, I think it can be greatly reduced, but even with bespoke, it is a design where you cannot completely eliminate the pain.
Because there are no laces, there is also a part where the heel tends to slip out until the sole is broken in. Even so, compared to the Goodyear welted method, I think the hand-sewn welted method is superior in terms of how easily the sole breaks in."
Murayoshi: "People's feet change their condition every day depending on swelling, etc., and we would be happy if you could carefully grow the loafers made with a last that suits the customer themselves until they become more familiar with the foot."
Shirahama: "Because loafers have a high degree of design freedom and are attractive shoes for enjoying fashion, I think it is a waste to give up on the comfort part, so I would like people who thought loafers did not fit their feet until now to consider bespoke at least once."
Murayoshi: "Historically, we would be happy if you could enjoy the design of loafers that have developed by overlapping the cultures of various countries without being tied to a fixed style and relax."
【Finally】
This time, as the 3rd part of the shoe design commentary column, we introduced loafers.
Loafers, while originally developing as shoes that can be worn casually, are now widely loved as dress shoes as well.
Loafers, which can enjoy various expressions depending on the combination of design, material, and last, have difficulty in fitting because of the different structure from lace-up shoes, but that is why we would like you to consider order shoes.
We plan to continue explaining the design of shoes in the future. If you have requests for the commentary column, or content you would like to see introduced in the column in the future, please contact us from the inquiry form on the website.
Also, other production examples besides those posted this time can be viewed on Yuki Shirahama Bottier Instagram or Gallery.
Written by
Yuki Shirahama Bottier
Yuki Shirahama
Asami Murayoshi
［Reference Materials / Sources］
*1 Aurland Official Homepage https://www.aurlands.com/en/blogs/nyheter/den-tidlose-aurlandskoen-the-original-pennyloafer
*2 Wildsmith Official Homepage https://www.wildsmith.com/pages/about-us
*3 'DRESSING THE MAN MASTERING THE ART OF PERMANENT FASHION' by ALAN FLUSSER, p. 203
*4 'Esquire's ENCYCLOPEDIA 20 CENTURY MEN'S FASHIONS' by O. E. SCHOEFFLER AND WILLIAM GALE, p. 593
G.H.BASS Official Homepage https://www.ghbass-eu.com/pages/history
*5 'GENTLEMAN A Timeless Guide to Fashion' by Bernhard Roefzel
*6 'TAKE IVY' Photo by T.HAYASHIDA, p. 122, etc.
*7 'DRESSING THE MAN MASTERING THE ART OF PERMANENT FASHION' by ALAN FLUSSER, p. 207