The process behind Bespoke: Basting - Vol.3

The creation of bespoke shoes involves a process that translates intangible sensations into a tangible form. At Yuki Shirahama Bottier, we place great importance on this key stage: the "basting trial" or "trial shoes." Following the internal verification using transparent resin in the previous stage, we now proceed to the final stage: the "leather basting trial."

Following up on our previous report about the transparent resin basting trial, this time we will report on the leather basting trial.
Based on the fitting results from the transparent resin basting trial, we adjusted the last and then produced the leather basting trial shoes.

For the leather basting trial, we generally use the same materials that will be used in the final product, creating the shoe so that the customer can easily envision the final delivery.
The shoes featured this time were hand-sewn moccasin slip-ons, so we applied hand-sewn moccasin stitching to only one shoe. (Normally, for basting trials, only the moccasin line is checked with machine stitching. A hand-sewn moccasin basting trial requires an additional upcharge.)

During the leather basting trial stage, in addition to checking the fitting, we also work with the customer to explore any necessary adjustments to the design lines.

⚫︎Fitting confirmation process

・Visual inspection while standing

・Confirmation of leather tension and gaps by touch while standing

・Customer feedback on comfort while standing

・Customer feedback on comfort while walking

Also, as a prerequisite for last design, for any leather shoe design, the heel of the opening will stretch by a few tenths of a millimeter when a shoehorn is used during normal wear. Therefore, to ensure long-lasting comfort, our workshop aims for a slightly tighter fit around the instep area in our designs.

First, when the basting shoes were tried on while standing and visually inspected, there was no gap in the topline, and the design balance was close to the desired line.
We discussed the moccasin line and detailed design with the customer. For slip-ons, the area from the base of the tongue to the topline is particularly crucial as it affects comfort. Therefore, we made decisions while considering both aesthetics and ease of walking.

Next, we touched the forefoot of the shoe to check for areas with excessive pressure or too much gap, and there were no issues here either.
This time, we intentionally aimed for a snugger fit, creating a slight wrinkle around the instep below the tassel, indicating some pressure.
Even within the category of "slip-ons," tassel slip-ons, in particular, have a shallower opening compared to other designs like penny loafers, which makes the heel prone to slipping out. The design takes this into account. Of course, it is also possible to design them without wrinkles under the tassel on the instep.

We also check the fitting from the side.
After the previous transparent resin basting trial, we made corrections to the side padding on the last, so we listened to the customer's feedback on comfort in that area to determine if further adjustments were needed.

Thanks to the previous corrections, the customer was able to wear the shoes with no lifting at the topline.
If there is a gap in the topline or a discrepancy between the bottom shape of the foot and the insole, it can cause a "whooshing" sound of air with every step and detract from the aesthetics when wearing the shoes. Therefore, it is necessary to make the last shape conform perfectly to the customer's foot.

We also check from the heel side.
For slip-ons, the shoe's resistance to slipping off while walking is crucial, so we carefully confirm how well the heel grips.
While both feet appeared to have good heel grip in a standing position, some lifting was observed in the left foot when walking. Therefore, it was decided that for the final delivery, the heel part of the last would be slightly shaved down for the left foot only.

In the case of the shoes shown, the fit between the foot and shoe was almost perfect, and since the interior of the shoe had already been checked during the previous transparent resin basting trial, we did not perform the process of cutting the upper.

The basting trial for these slip-ons went very well, with the customer wearing them comfortably and requiring almost no additional adjustments.
From here, based on the basting trial results, we will further refine the last and pattern, and finally proceed with the production of the finished product.

Over these three installments, we have introduced the basting trial process at Yuki Shirahama Bottier. We hope that we have conveyed a sense of the background behind bespoke shoemaking and Yuki Shirahama Bottier's unique approach to fitting.
Orders for slip-ons from the first pair are also possible at our atelier, so please feel free to inquire if interested.

Finally, to Mr. I, thank you very much for your continued cooperation.

The Process Behind Bespoke - Basting Trial Vol.1
The Process Behind Bespoke - Basting Trial Vol.2

Authored by
Yuki Shirahama Bottier
Yuki Shirahama
Asami Murayoshi