Craftsmanship of our Bespoke shoes
Yuki Shirahama Bottier is a Japanese bespoke shoemaker based in Kyoto, Japan.
We specialize in fully handmade bespoke shoes,
Crafted individually using custom wooden lasts and traditional shoemaking techniques.
All processes, from measurement and last making to finishing,
Are carried out entirely in our own atelier.
Since its establishment, Yuki Shirahama Bottier has been continuously exploring the possibilities of "fully handmade bespoke shoes." Our shoemaking goes beyond simply fitting sizes. We meticulously craft each pair by hand in our own atelier, creating footwear that complements your stride, attire, and life.
To date, we have poured our hearts and souls into crafting over 1,000 pairs of bespoke shoes. Each pair brought unique challenges, specific preferences, and the joy of seeing them realized. We now infuse all of that vast experience into every single pair before us, giving shape to our customers' ideals.
Measurement & Observation
"Sizing": Listening to Your Body's Voice
The creation of bespoke shoes begins with a detailed understanding of the individual foot, developed through meticulous measurement and translated into structure and form.
We carefully observe your feet, recording their contours, the circumference of the forefoot and midfoot, how weight is distributed, your walking gait, and skeletal characteristics such as flat feet or bunions. Furthermore, we engage in a detailed dialogue to understand the intended use for the pair of shoes, incorporating this purpose into the design guidelines for the last.
One of my roots is experience at a sports shoe manufacturer. There, I was involved in creating base lasts based on foot data from 12,000 people. This scientific knowledge and my past experience serve as a reliable guide for deciphering and deeply understanding the subtle sensations that customers don't articulate.
As the person responsible for this dialogue, I also handle the entire process from last creation to finishing, accurately translating the "sensory fit" that cannot be expressed in numbers into the design blueprint.
Last Making
Sculpting the ideal silhouette, transcending mere numbers.
Each custom last is developed specifically for bespoke shoes, translating the characteristics of the foot into precise structure and form.
Based on the measurement results, we create a bespoke "last" exclusively for you.
The last, carved from wood, not only accurately reproduces the shape of your foot but also simultaneously pursues the aesthetic beauty (proportion) of the shoe.
Here, my knowledge of kinetic characteristics deeply permeates the design of each and every pair of shoes. For example, for golf shoes, I consider the shift of the center of gravity to the ball of the foot during a swing, and for walking shoes, I enhance stability upon landing. My style is to incorporate such "theories for movement" into the traditional aesthetic beauty of bespoke craftsmanship.
Furthermore, even a few millimeters of error in the last can significantly affect comfort. For instance, when wearing slip-ons, your heel might not slip when you're standing still, but it might come out when you start walking. This can be due to the bottom shape of the last deviating from the sole of your foot, creating unnecessary space when you step.
Therefore, I subtly alter the last design depending on the overall shoe design. Utilizing my years of accumulated experience and the imagination to envision how you will walk, I shape the "ideal" with my own hands – shoes that make you stand beautifully and don't tire you even after long hours of walking.
Pattern Making & Clicking
Translating three-dimensional beauty onto a two-dimensional plane, and deciphering the essence of materials.
Once the last is complete, design lines are drawn on it.
Next, we begin creating the pattern, which translates the three-dimensional curves into a flat plane. The design lines drawn directly on the last are complex three-dimensional curves, but they must be accurately flattened.
The purpose of this process in customized shoes is to ensure that the upper leather perfectly conforms to the last. If the design is neglected at this stage, the leather may wrinkle unnaturally during lasting, or conversely, gaps may form between the leather and the last. The most important thing is to perfectly balance the overall design. By leveraging the unique characteristics of the three-dimensional last and meticulously calculating every detail during the pattern-making stage, we ultimately create a beautiful and refined appearance that adheres perfectly to the last.
Once the pattern is complete, we move on to cutting the leather (clicking), which is the most nerve-wracking moment. Even the highest quality leather, being a natural material, is never identical.
Before cutting, we thoroughly check the leather's surface for "growing marks" (growth traces), blood vessels, and minute imperfections. It is also essential to determine the "direction of the grain" (the direction in which the leather stretches). Leather has different stretching directions depending on the area, and if the optimal direction is not aligned with each part, the shape will collapse over time with wear. Which part to use and in which direction to make the cut? We interpret the life of the material and precisely cut the parts for a single pair of shoes, using the most luxurious and logical balance.
Closing & Hand Stitching
Sewing: Achieving Both Delicacy and Strength
The cut leather is then made into the upper.
In addition to precise machine stitching, "hand stitching," "broguing" (perforated decoration), and "leather skiving" are applied as needed, creating a bespoke feel. We carefully sew the shoes by hand, even using natural materials for unseen interlinings, calculating the "room for growth" so that the shoes will conform to the owner's foot shape the more they are worn.
What we value is beauty that is not lost over time. This is what defines the character of handmadeshoes.While using traditional decorative techniques, we strive for solid tailoring that will make you feel, even after years of wearing them, "I'm glad I chose these shoes."
Lasting
"Lasting" is the process of shaping the leather to fit the shoe last, bringing out its unique character.
It is through lasting that the design of the custom
last is translated into the leather.
After sewing, the upper is placed over the last. This process, called "lasting," involves shaping the upper using nails and a pincer-like tool, which requires the craftsman's experience.
Each type and part of leather has a unique "stretch rate." To make the leather perfectly conform to the curves of the last without losing its stretch or leaving any excess, a skilled sense that can interpret the feeling in the fingertips is essential. If pulled too quickly, the leather will be damaged; if not pulled enough, it will become loose. This accumulation of delicate force adjustment results in a stress-free fitting.
Furthermore, the "side lining" (stiffener) that supports the sides is key to preventing the shoe from shifting sideways and maintaining its shape even after years of wear. The choice of material, its placement, and the lasting process are crucial. It is in this internal structure, which is never visible from the outside, that the truth of our bespoke tradition and the robustness that supports walking resides.
Bottom Making
Traditional "hand-sewn welt construction"
Finally, it's time for bottom-making, where soul is breathed into the shoes.
We are committed to traditional manufacturing methods, performing everything from insole processing to "welt stitching" and "outsole stitching" entirely by hand.
We twist linen thread to create the yarn, rub it with wax made from pine resin, and tighten each stitch with optimal tension. This precise application of force is a testament to the artisan's skill. The reliable "stitching" built up over time produces overwhelming flexibility and durability. Furthermore, the delicate thickness adjustment of the internal fillers that balance the load on the sole of the foot and the core materials is a realm that mass-produced machine-made products can never reach.
Finishing beautifully is a given for a professional. However, hidden within are unique techniques invisible from the outside. The way the thread is passed, the way the leather is layered, the position on the leather where the needle passes, and how force is applied and released. These traditional wisdoms passed down through generations and our accumulated experience maximize the shoe's durability and robustness. It is in these unseen parts that the inherent strong framework of bespoke shoes, which remains undiminished over the years, is hidden.
The Craftsman’s Discipline
Supporting 200 Processes: The "Structure" and "Discernment"
The creation of bespoke shoes involves over 200 processes. These are all interconnected like a chain, and a single mistake in one place will affect the final quality of the finished pair. This is why the "quality control" checks performed at the beginning, middle, and end of each process are just as crucial as the manual work itself.
Each process is supported by "precision," "stability," and "material condition management." Here, "condition management" refers to appropriate leather moisture control, the dampness during sole processing, and consistent shape retention by allowing the upper to conform to the last over time after lasting. These are meticulously adjusted in response to changes in season, temperature, and humidity.
In each process, we rigorously assess "precision," "stability," and "material condition," and only proceed to the next step once we are confident. Without this chain, the next process will never succeed. This uncompromising accumulation is the essence of our "quality control."
Furthermore, to pursue precision and stability, "posture" (the posture adopted when working, how tools and shoes are held, and eye gaze, etc.) is important.
For example, the way one holds a European knife and a Japanese leather knife differs not only in the grip but also in body stance and even the muscles used. The specific body movements to maximize the unique characteristics of each tool, and the precise knife handling and movements that support consistent production, are things that we have internalized over many years and do not wish to easily disclose. These are accumulated within oneself through working with hundreds, even thousands, of shoes.
It is not about knowledge, but about making it one's own through endless accumulation. **I feel that bespoke shoemaking has its own unique "path." It involves regulating one's physical movements and rigorously assessing the finish of each individual process. This continuous exploration creates a reliable feel in every step of the process.
The Philosophy of Order Shoes
Two Pursuits in Bespoke Footwear
Though we use the general term "order shoes," there are two distinct and wonderful approaches to them. MTO (made-to-order), which is currently widely popular, is an excellent form of ordering that allows you to experience the joy of creating a unique pair within established specifications.
On the other hand, the "full-hand bespoke shoes" that we currently craft represent a journey of exploration where we delve deeply into each customer's individuality and design a shoe from scratch, exclusively for that one person.
The reason we continue to pursue this method is that each customer's feet are literally "infinitely varied," and there is a completely different optimal solution for each one. For example, if there is even a slight mismatch between the "directionality" of the foot's skeletal structure and the last's design, it can lead to problems such as persistent pain from a rubbing little toe. With bespoke, we begin by fundamentally aligning the directionality of the foot and the last.
Furthermore, a strength of bespoke shoes lies in the fact that even the "shape of the sole" is designed to match the individual foot. We construct the sole so that pressure is evenly distributed across the entire sole of the foot, and we appropriately position the "fleshy areas (soft tissues)" during the design phase. It is precisely because of this meticulous design that we achieve a seamless, glove-like fit and a natural, deep, and comfortable feel without any strain.
Finishing
To deliver the "best" for that individual
Finally, we apply leather care treatments suited to the leather's properties, and meticulously polish the shoes by applying multiple layers of wax, thereby completing a pair of shoes. This finishing process is the final stage that unifies the extensive processes that came before, ensuring that the joy our customers feel when they hold the shoes in their hands is genuine.
Our goal is not merely to create the physical form of a shoe. We aim to achieve a design that precisely matches our intentions, combined with a comfortable and reliable fit, bringing our customers true happiness. Furthermore, we strive for that one pair of shoes to transform our customers' posture into something more natural and beautiful.
"Shoes that naturally exude the individuality of the wearer."
Tradition, scientific logic, and sensibility backed by our past production achievements. We bring all of these together in each pair of shoes, taking responsibility from the very first step to the final polish to bring our customers' visions to life.
Written by Yuki Shirahama
Yuki Shirahama Bottier
CONTACT
Please feel free to contact us for reservations or consultations.